Tuesday, 30 September 2014

The Kepler Track

We just completed one of New Zealand's "Great Walks" - The Kepler Track which was a 60km track taking  3 days to complete.  The walk started off leaving the touristy town of Te Anau following the shores of the Lake, which felt like being beside a pretty beachside with it's white sands and turquoise waters.  Once past the end of the lake, the track weaved through a beech forest gaining 600m of elevation, before emerging above the tree line in to an amazing alpine landscape.


 Over the three days we walked up and over an expansive mountain ridge line, sheltered from gale force winds in the quaint emergency huts, witnessed the chaos following a tree avalanches and finished off walking through a remote rain forest. We felt like we had the whole mountain range to ourselves, only ever meeting other people once we arrived at our hut for the night.


The accomodation along the way was excellent.  The Luxmore Hut which we stayed at the first night had great panaromic views across to Te Anau and the surrounding mountain ranges.  We met a few guys from Israel and spent the evening chatting with them, sharing stories of travels and trying to learn each other's language (Welsh and Hebru).   The second night at the Iris Burn Hut, was as equally comfortable, (despite the pesky sandflies) and we spent the evening in the company of Luke from Holland, who had walked our 2 day trip in just one day! 


The following day we walked out through a dense rainforest back towards Te Anau, where Rob hitch hiked with an electrician back to get the van and then picked up Luke and I for a much deserved drink and shower back in Te Anau.  Later that evening we met up with Gaby, our Italian friend from Cardrona, and had an incredible and entertaining evening at La Dolce Vita in Te Anau - highly recommended, not just for the food, but for the entertaining owner! 



Monday, 29 September 2014

Doubtful Sound


Named Doubtful Sound by Captain Cook who didn't enter the inlet of the Fjords, as he was doubtful if he would ever get out, we were doubtful if we would ever arrive! It was a frosty but clear morning when we set off for our overnight cruise.  Despite getting an emergency jump start in Frankton and paying the wrong fuel bill at the petrol station, we arrived in the fresh and pristine Manapouris just in time to board the boat.  It was a smooth crossing across lake manapouri and great to look at the mountains that are home to the Kepler track that we're walking later in teh week.

We hopped ashore at the other side of Lake Manapouri and boarded a bus that took us over the Wilmot Pass, which is the most expensive road in New Zealand.

After 45 minutes travelling over the steep, widing pass in the the far south west corner of New Zealand, we arrived in Deep Cove and our home for the next 2 days - The Navigator was moored up waiting for us.

We boarded and set sail on our wildness cruise and had an educational afternoon from Carol, the nature guide (and a former colleague at Cardrona) who pointed out the various wildlife along the way, including dolphins, seals, fjordland crested penguins and the huge array of birdlife.

We got the opportunity to go Kayaking and we enjoyed paddling around the still teal coloured waters,  witnessing tree avalanches and feeling very insignificant as we were surrounded by the steep sided mountains and rainforest. 

It was a magical and peaceful trip, which highlighted real and raw beauty. It was so nice to see a part of the world that is totally untouched by humans (despite us passing through the waters), a feeling of total remoteness and peace.

One thing that stood out most for me and i'll try and take away with me when I'm back at work and away from all this, is the magical feeling of the sound of silence, something we experienced at the end of the "Hall Arm" fjord.

As we sailed through the mist, we came to a halt and the boat turned off it's engine,.  Everyone was asked to turn off their phones and just enjoy the moment. The water was still with a perfect reflection of the rainforest to our right, we could hear waterfalls cascading down through the trees to our left and all around us we can just hear the bird song of a Bell Bird.  Ahead of us we see a white mist hanging in the valley, floating gracefully through trees. It was a scene of tranquil and solitude and pure natural beauty.  I felt very so very content, happiness and love for having had the opportunity to experience a magical moment with Rob by my side. It was certainly a feeling of being in the "now", enjoying the the present moment and being in a very happy place at a very happy time. Something I know I will need to practice once we're back in the "real" World!